As I recall, the holiday season was always a state of whimsical frenzy on Tortola, but nothing like it is now. Christalen is all business; on the counter in front of her is a binder with the title "Christmas and New Year's Eve Events." It's loaded with news of more cocktail hours, fungi-band performances, midnight parties, and boat parades than a fleet of bareboat charterers and winter-season cruisers could possibly knock off. Still she clips away, and the binder gets fatter. "Sometimes it's so hard to find out all the information," she says as she works her scissors around another announcement, another ad. And so it goes; it's the holidays in the Caribbean. Christmas winds of 25 to 30 knots have blown in on schedule. At the marinas, shiny garlands laced around poolside borders blind you in the hot midday sun; at night, multicolored lights twinkle and sway with rigging rocking in the breeze. Tropical holiday carols boom out of radios and iPods rigged up to speakers.