| Our newly chrome-plated doradesa perfect job.* * *|
At the two marinas in Cartagena, Club Nautico and Club de Pesca, there are approved laborers who hire out for between $15 and $25 a day. Their skill levels vary, and talent is passed along by word of mouth. Weve inherited the good work of Alfonso Mendoza Villaba from Doug and Judy Decker on _Limerence_. Alfonso has a genetic make-up different from mine: He loves to clean; he loves to polish; he loves to shine. Plus, he knows where to find stuff. When we need parts, he and I jump in a cab, ever since I declined further rides on the back of his motorcycle. Taxis are ubiquitous, and no matter where you go in town the cost is either 3,000, 4,000, or 5,000 pesos, depending on the time of day or night, the distance, the drivers whim, your remembering to negotiate in advance, and carrying the exact amount, because taxi drivers dont do change. Their doleful chant is "_Lo siento, no tengo cambio_," which translates roughly as "No way dufuss; theres a stupidity tax in my cab for those who hasnt enough sense to bring the right coins."