Still, at the fishing lodges on both islands, fishermen were again booking rooms, meals were available, and they served cold beer. Acklins’ Atwood Harbour could not have been prettier or snugger. A nearby store, still rebuilding, was well-stocked and awaiting cruisers. On Crooked Island, we also found stores with shelves full. We went deep-sea fishing on a guide’s boat that had been so recently repaired and repainted, we all had white stripes across the back of our shorts as souvenirs from sitting on the gunwales. And by the wharf, where a resort once stood, a handful of cruising sailboats lay at anchor, enjoying the breeze, sun and ungodly blue water.