Along the Northwest Passage, polar bears are coming ashore and into town in search of food because their diet is changing. The locals find that they, too, must alter their traditional hunting practices because the ice is no longer there for transportation. And some villages, the two sailors note, are literally falling into the sea because without the permafrost, the land is crumbling and melting away. Still, modern times and technology have made for strange bedfellows. Fourth-generation whale hunters have teamed up with scientists, and each is learning from the other to create a more accurate picture of how the world, even above the Arctic Circle, is changing. It was these firsthand accounts of a world in flux, not of the storms at sea, that I found most riveting.