Tired after a squally passage from the Solomon Islands, my partner, Rob Cadmus, and I awoke just after dawn to beating drums and bellowing conch shells. We peered through the hatch of Toyatte, our Westsail 32, to find ourselves surrounded by dozens of sailing canoes, their sails furled in the still morning air. They were preparing to make their grand entrance to the Kenu & Kundu Festival in Alotau, a town on the waterfront of Milne Bay, Papua New Guinea. Delighted with our prime anchoring position, we sipped coffee and traded greetings with the passing paddlers. Many were dressed in warrior attire — grass skirts, feather headdresses, shell armbands. They shouted taunts from boat to boat, hecklers standing on the outriggers blowing conch shells. A lime whizzed past our boat as one warrior began a slingshot crusade against his competitors.