We met J. W. Bradford Ray in La Paz, enjoying a few rare days at the dock in Marina Palmira. Ray, from Denmark, South Carolina, had a good job before he became a cruiser, but in that part of his life he was just a sailor waiting to get out of his disguise. He left San Diego on Gamecock, his wing-keeled Pearson 37, in the company of a group of cruisers in October 1995. His boat, named after the University of South Carolina football team, is hull number 19, circa 1989. The boat is simple, practical, and a little lived in, but it's inhabited by Ray in a way that truly comfortable cruisers can achieve. Clearly at home, he refers to the areas belowdecks as the "kitchen," the "bedroom," and the "bathroom" when he tells his stories. He's been out there really going places, mostly singlehanded, for 10 years, and he falls into the stories effortlessly.