But in early August, as we made our way down Amundsen Gulf toward Cambridge Bay, for the first time in quite a while the VHF radio suddenly crackled to life. The Brits had spotted us motoring past. We gazed through the binoculars toward a bleak, desolate shore, and though we were only a mile away, it was hard to pick out the source of the transmission. Finally, we got a visual on their spindly rig and tiny boat, moored to a beached ice floe. Moments later, we dropped the dinghy in the water, zipped into the beach, and made the acquaintance of two very rugged and hearty Royal Marines, Major Tony Lancashire and Lt. Col. Kevin Oliver.