After turning left from the Catamaran Club, we went past the old church, turned shoreward, and walked through farmland rich with papayas, mangoes, and climbing peas. We turned toward the stables, then left and up, up, up, and we soon discovered that not all of Antigua is a goat-ridden desert. Having survived some steep ascents, we descended through a damp virgin forest. Finches flitted by, doves cooed, and rare white-crowned pigeons raced across the open path. After about 45 minutes, the vegetation became drier, the blue sea shimmered through the gaps between trees, and the crescent of Rendezvous Beach opened up ahead.