It's a 20-minute walk from the Club Nautico marina over the bridge, down Calle Largo, through the clock-tower portico in the city's wall, and into labyrinth of the old town. Inside, we're inundated with new sights, smells, and sounds. There are plazas, monasteries, cafes, palaces, noble homes, museums, gardens, and boutiques. Inviting restaurants are everywhere, and we've been told that they're some of the finest (and cheapest) restaurants you can imagine. We peek behind large wooden doors that open into lush private courtyards. On every street, overhanging balconies are draped with flowers. We wander for hours. Every time we reach an intersection of two streets, we take turns selecting the next direction to take. Finally, Douglas announces that he's starving, we find a little local cafe, and tuck into a tipico meal: meat, potatoes, salad and plantains—lunch for $2 each.