| Mitch stripped the island bare. Locals said there was not a leaf left on any tree on the island. The hillside, now with only the trunks of the trees left standing, is a reminder of the devastation.* * *|
At the same time, Guanaja is a vibrant island, with lots of wildlife, a giant reef system surrounding it, and picture-postcard cays and beaches. Every day weve been here dolphins have ambled through the anchorage, circling the five boats here, cavorting, puffing, spurting, and giving off happy vibes. Theyre curious but wary and dash away from swimmers and dinghies. They remind me of our time at Cayo Norte on Banco Chinchorro in Mexico, where the same group of four came by every morning around eight. We came to recognize one by the distinctive shark bite taken out of its upper, or dorsal, fin, and another one because his dorsal fin was bent to the side. Theyd let us swim near them, but never too near! Its hokey superstition, but both the Commodore and I seem to invest in dolphin arrivals as magically good omens. We assume that when they visit, nothing major will break that day. Mostly its true.