No story about chartering in Antigua is complete without some discussion of our next destinations, Falmouth Harbour and English Harbour, but don't worry, I won't bore you with the oft-repeated platitudes about these hallowed harbors where the charter industry was born. When we arrived, Antigua Sailing Week was just ramping up, in spite of the infamous Icelandic ash cloud that put a crimp in the travel plans of some Brits and Euros making the annual Antigua pilgrimage. Adding to the show, some big, luscious classic yachts, left over from their annual on-the-water extravaganza held the week before, were still in attendance. Shirley Heights still has a steel drum-and-rum fest on Sunday night, and the café and bar at the Antigua Yacht Club Marina in Falmouth is still the Ellis Island of the Caribbean: Everybody who's anybody passes through there. But we'd come all this way to pull the plug, not swim in the social scene, no matter how cool, or fascinating, or stimulating it proved be. After we did a quick top-up of ice and miscellaneous must-have provisions, the requisite final email check, and spent an eerily windless night on the hook, we put Falmouth in the rearview mirror.