The next day’s arrival was the slowest in my history of sailing. We woke late, ate pancakes and slept again. There was no rush now that we’d arrived. We had two months to discover impenetrable dwarf forests. In other woods on the islands, songbirds accompanied our every step, hopping close by from branch to branch. Various albatrosses — shy, sooty, royal and wandering — bred on grassy plateaus. Along the precipitous west coast cliffs, waterfalls blew upward, defying gravity so their waters never reached the sea. We found penguins deep in the woods, along with the love nests of “hookers,” as the local sea lions are called. We watched our ensign, the Dannebrog, or Danish national flag, flog itself to half size thanks to two severe storms.