In spite of a spell of strong contrary winds, we managed to arrive in Nuuk late last night. I had called the harbour master on my satellite phone earlier to say that we may not get in before midnight, and he replied that it was no problem, and that he’d wait. When we entered the outer harbour and called him on VHF radio, he replied immediately, told us where to tie up and met us on the dock to take our lines. What is going on in the world? Orkney fishermen waving at us as we pass them, the harbour master of Greenland’s main commercial port is waiting until close to midnight to welcome a yacht? Is the world changing, or is it just that in such remote places people still behave as everyone used to … once upon a time.