Continuing upriver toward the town of Rio Dulce, the waters widened into an area called El Golfete. I was astounded by the vistas of mountain ranges to the north and south. On the south side of El Golfete, we anchored at Cayo Quemado, or Burnt Key. Many refer to it as Texan Bay because a cruiser named Mike, from Texas, used to run the marina and restaurant on the hill. Now Burnt Key Marina is operated by a Dutch merchant-marine captain named Maurits, while Mike manages the restaurant, Manglar, next door. Maurits told us he had traveled the world over by boat and decided to settle in Cayo Quemado because he'd finally found paradise. We explored the well-protected anchorage's little creeks by kayak and dinghy. We frequently saw men and women of diminutive stature and advanced age carrying tremendous loads of corn or rice on their backs and heads. Locals living on the banks approached Mary T, selling handcrafted wares and coconut bread from their cayucos. They came with precious little children who looked up at us with dark, soulful eyes, making it nearly impossible not to buy something.