We spent time anchored off the villages of Vaitahu and then Hapatoni, each with a stunning church and some of the most sincere, open people we’ve met in our travels. In Vaitahu we spent a couple of days getting to know Jimmy, his wife, Tahia, and their kids. They welcomed us into their home and took us on a hike to their property in an adjacent valley, where they picked tons of food and filled bags with eggplant, coconuts, mangoes, grapefruit and oranges for us to take back to the boat. Our kids and theirs hit it off, and Tahia’s English was good. Walking past the local school, she explained that it only serves children up to age 10. At 11, Marquesan kids leave home for boarding school on Nuku Hiva. Throughout the upper grades, they’re gone from home for two-month stretches, returning for two-week visits in between.