Inspired by rally participants, she finally felt ready to take the plunge and sail Nereida solo offshore. It was October, late in the season, when she headed down the infamous Washington and Oregon coasts, calling the trip "the big test." To her surprise, she was exhilarated by the offshore solo experience and spent an enjoyable winter sailing to Zihuatanejo, Mexico, before shipping the boat north again, this time to Ketchikan, Alaska, to explore the dramatic and remote Inside Passage there. I joined her in Glacier Bay for a spectacular week as Nereida, dwarfed by towering mountains, sailed in between surreal-shaped icebergs and anchored near aqua glaciers. En route I learned that Socrates, an avid birdwatcher, was as enthusiastic as I am about researching and exploring new destinations and the wonders of wildlife.