A charter in Belize isn't complete without the exploration of the nation's offshore atolls, which lie beyond its lengthy barrier reef, the second largest in the world. Bareboaters are required by the Belizean government to hire local skippers if they sail outside the reef, and that's why Jimmy was with us. Hailing from the southern town of Placentia, the extended Westby family members are lifelong fishermen. Their livelihood, and a good deal of their pantry, springs from the sea. The gathering of the evening feast was a daylong affair; just after 5 a.m., Jimmy had already helped us catch kingfish and barracuda off the stern of the catamaran. We'd barely iced those down when he moved the boat to a spot that was nondescript to all but his trained eye. He anchored, donned snorkeling gear, and disappeared beneath the surface of the water, only to emerge with bundles of sea moss, a kind of seaweed. These, he later explained, he'd take home, along with the barracuda, to his family. The sea moss would be used to make an eggnog-like drink. The barracuda would be filleted and grilled.