The southern fjords were spectacular, but civilization was calling. Before making the push to the comforts of Longyearbyen, however, we made another stop on the way north in Recherchefjorden. It was just enough time for Andreas to launch the paraglider and the rest of us to hike to a century-old abandoned coal mining village and check in with some friendly Polish permafrost and erosion scientists at the small research station at Calypsobyen. It was nice for our international delegation and the Poles, all researchers at a university in Lublin, to see some new faces, I think. And we were heartily welcomed into their wooden cabin, which was lined with reindeer antlers and glacier maps, for tea. The researchers regaled us with stories of recent polar bear sightings. One animal, they said, had visited their cabin at 6AM and awakened the team by violently shaking the outside wall.