"I've been a cruiser all my life." he smiled. "Name's Mark Hassler." This rang a bell. We shook hands. I noticed his gnarled, misshapen fingers, knuckles, and elbows. This was the guy! "I used to live on the river, too. I'm on land now, in San Marcos, with my wife," and he introduced us to Kathy, a small, dark Guatemalan woman with long black braids, dressed traditionally in embroidered huipile blouse and woven skirt. An hour later, when we reached Mark and Kathy's lancha stop, which was just before ours, Mark had told us a the beginning of a story so awesome that Douglas and I asked if we could walk up to their house the next day and hear the end of it.