The skipper of Polaris isn't the only cruiser who still equates the Virgins with peace, quiet, and relief from a society hopped up on communications devices. As we made our way from Trellis Bay back to Queen of Hearts, anchored off nearby Marina Cay, I was eager to visit the boat whose laundry I'd seen fluttering from lifelines earlier that morning. "It has to be done," says Tony MacDonald, skipper of Gabro, a Niagara 35. He welcomed us aboard, and when I'd gotten comfortable in the cockpit of the sloop that he and his wife, Suzanne, have cruised since 1996, I noticed a flourishing row of pots by the helm. "That's Tony's herb garden," Suzanne says. "We both enjoy cooking."