The 15-mile run around Punta Este and down the south coast in a light, northerly breeze was simply exquisite. The shoreline was mostly empty, save for mile after mile of white, sandy beach. We saw exactly two boats, a Mako runabout and one other catamaran. The water was crystal clear, the bottom easily visible 70 feet below. At one point, as a school of flying fish took flight, a huge, gleaming dolphin fish broke free of the water in a long, wet arc, then locked on to one of the flyers. Back in its element, the dolphin fish zigged and zagged like a tracer missile and was right there--chomp!--the instant its prey hit the drink.