Throughout our stay in Nuuk Aventura has been tied up alongside Kisaq, a 20-metre workboat, strongly built and perfectly suited for these waters. The owner, Anders Pedersen, a former Danish Coast Guard officer, has been based in Greenland for the last 30 years. Most of his work is for the government, such as taking technical staff to service medical equipment in remote settlements, and occasional tourist charters in South Greenland’s spectacular fjordlands. Anders and his wife Ellen adopted us from the moment of our arrival, and gave us much valuable local advice as well as practical help throughout our stay. As it is compulsory to have a gun in Arctic Canada to protect against possible attacks by polar bears, I asked Anders’s advice where to buy one.