March 2004 Table of Contents

THE SAILING LIFE

On Watch
17 She'll Be Right, Mate
by Steve Callahan
In Australia, "She'll be right" actually means the thing is a total mess but that life would be grand if only I could just chill

Letter from Aventura
21 Musings from Paradise Evolved
by Jimmy Cornell
On the occasion of his fourth arrival in Tahiti by boat, Jimmy reflects on nautical technology and its influences on the places we visit

Under Way
25 Exploring James Bay
by Peter Kick
A small, trailerable Dovekie is the vessel that carries these sailors into northern Quebec for a summertime look at a subarctic wonderland

**Passage Notes
**29 La Patisserie de la Mer
by Cap'n Fatty Goodlander
On the island of Mayotte, cruisers enjoy the collision of influences from France and Africa

Special Report
35 Boat Insurance: The New Gamble
by Todd Scantlebury
Long-distance cruisers for the last few seasons have seen a dramatic rise in their hull-insurance premiums-when they can find coverage at all

**People and Food
**45 Bounty in Beaufort
by David Allester
The city's longtime open-door policy to sailors, reaching back to Blackbeard's day, provides the backdrop for a tasty tuna dinner

**144 Log of Ithaka
**You Say Good-bye, I Say Hello
by Douglas Bernon
When we measure the costs of cruising, parting from the ones we've come to love has to be one of the highest prices

**FEATURES
**46 Two Ships Passing in the Stream
by Herb McCormick and Tim Murphy
Two sailors set out to cross the Gulf Stream-one from New England to Bermuda, the other from Bermuda to New England-on the same June day. Their passages couldn't have been more different

51 Proving Trials in the Beaver Islands
by Hugh Horton
Through the isles of northern Lake Michigan, a pair of sailing canoes blend space-age composite technology with Victorian-era cruising ideals

Electronics 2004
56 Is Your GPS Talking Nicely to Your Autopilot?
by Ed Sherman
A new networking protocol brings plug-and-play to your boat's own electronics suite, while still allowing your old gear to talk to what's new

REVIEWS
Voyaging

74Caribbean Exit Lines
by Don Street
When you're heading on from the islands-whether toward North America, Europe, or the Pacific-timing is everything

Systems
82 A Fridge for All Seasons
by Joe Minick
Designing an onboard refrigeration system presents three main choices: how it operates, how it's cooled, and how it's powered

**Boathandling
**88 Mastering the Bow Thruster
by Christopher Knight
A nudge at the stem is all well and good till you forget the familiar old bugaboo of prop walk

Rigging
92 Around Alone with an Unstayed Mast
by Bruce Schwab
This ocean racer didn't want a rig that was just fast; it had to be unbreakable and safer and easier to handle than a conventional one

**REVIEWS
**Electronics 2004 Gear Review
62 From Magic Screens to Magic Wands
by Ed Sherman
This roundup of new electronics gadgets takes in the year's biggest advances, from single boxes offering radar and chart plotting to handheld radios that bring in all the bands

Boat Test
68 A New Tack for Jeanneau
by John Kretschmer
The Sun Odyssey 54 DS, featuring an innovative twin-level cockpit, is the stylish new flagship for the Jeanneau fleet

Boat Review
72 Catalina's Real World
by Jeremy McGeary
Designed to support a couple in commodious surroundings, Catalina's new 387 offers a clean division of space

New Products
73 Fouling Farewells and Sweet Dreams
by Jeremy McGeary
Coatings, coverings, and fixings for hands, feet, soles, bottoms, and topsides

DEPARTMENTS
5/Editor's Log
6/Mailbag
8/Shoreline
98/Chartering News
131/Another Opinion
143/Advertiser Index