This upwind bash, while uncomfortable, had always been part of the plan. After crossing the Pacific on our Valiant 40, Halcyon, my husband and I started cruising the South Pacific in the Gambier Archipelago, in the southeast corner of French Polynesia, then slowly explored north and west through the Tuamotus. From there, we could have sailed downwind to the Societies, but we were not willing to miss the striking beauty, abundant fruit and friendly people in the Marquesas. So we turned northeast and sailed 800 miles upwind. We were soon rewarded for our determination.