Our cruising buddies Tim and Paula, who dive so much that I think they may have hidden gills, recommended West End Divers, on Roatán, as a great place to get the kids certified to dive. Now that Kaeo was 13 and his sister, Kailani, was 10, they could each get a junior open-water certification through PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. So while we waited in Honduras for the weather we needed to head to Panama, we enrolled both of them in certificate programs. After three and a half days of intensive classroom work in the dive shop, homework on Osprey, and in-the-water training, they passed their final exam one bright, clear morning. We took them for a celebratory lunch, then headed out to the reef.