The following day found us tearing before 35 knots, spray whisking from the whitecaps around us. As night fell, the wind increased to 40 and then 45 knots, so we doused the triple-reefed main and flew only the high-cut yankee jib. The forecast was puzzling. NOAA divides Alaska into weather zones, and our two zones, Shelikof Strait and Sitkinak to Castle Cape, had wildly different predictions. Yet sure enough, as we passed between them, 35-knot head winds greeted us. Despite clear skies, the blow built all day, until gusts funneling out of the bays and between mountains hit 50 knots. The whole sea foamed white. Spray drove over the top of the boom. Celeste's bow submerged in every wave, and her jib sheet and windward shrouds were taut as piano strings. We debated turning back for Agripina Bay, but we were 30 miles past it already. Chignik was not protected enough, but a place on the chart called Ross Cove might be. Our chart didn't give elevations, so we didn't know how wrong we were.