"I feel like a ride," he called over when things calmed down. "Wanna take a look at the Pigeons?" We sure did,, jumped in his pretty 37-foot dory, he throttled up her 170-horsepower Yanmar, and we shot out at 25 knots over the light turquoise shallows for a couple of miles to the two postcard-pretty sand cays out on the reef. Then, he spun Miss French Cay around to show us the bearing out through a channel in the reef, which he said he'd transited a million times. "It's not in your guide book," he smiled, "but it's a good one for you." He told us all about how to read these cold fronts better, about how he built this dory, about his great-grandparents coming over from England, about the market for fish, about how he sells shark fins as a delicacy, and about how much he loves these reefs. "I got everything I need here," he said, looking around. "I'm a lucky man."