The scariest, and potentially hardest, part of sailing around Newfoundland is the Strait of Belle Isle. Since the prevailing weather is from the southwest, most people go around the island clockwise, and if they get too much wind in the Strait, at least it’s from astern. Quite often there is rather a lot of it, plus respectable tidal currents, frequent fog and abundant icebergs, mixed in with shipping of all sorts. We had read stories of, and knew personally, folks who had tacked for days back and forth across the Strait between Newfoundland and Labrador, trying to pass through to the Gulf of St. Lawrence as we needed to. It didn’t help that, in September, sailing season was officially over: The fishermen had mostly packed it in for the year, and there was a tropical storm or two spinning away out in the North Atlantic. We had thought then, sitting out our third gale in 10 days in a small bay at the very northern end of Newfoundland — and not knowing whether we’d get through the Strait or not — that we’d be pretty happy to see the last of Newfoundland. We regretted that unkind thought when as a reward for our patience we got a perfectly quiet day to traverse the Strait, with a following wind, no sign of fog and a fair current that got us through to Savage Cove with hours of daylight to spare.