We slipped into the busyness of civilization with alarming ease. It was only a short walk along the main road to town, where for the first time in more than a year, we found not one but three American-style supermarkets, shelves full of choices ready to overwhelm. We were amazed at the selection, but also noticed how much excess packaging the Western brands use — four six-pack rings in every case of beer, cardboard boxes suffocated in plastic wrap, meats sold on Styrofoam trays. With no municipal recycling plan, it all ended up in the landfill, a heap we could see, and smell, on the way into town. After a week or so back in civilization, we were craving deserted anchorages and picturesque surroundings. Thankfully, the Rock Islands, just a few miles south of town, were well stocked with both.