In the Thorofares water, flat save for the occasional wake, we pass tiny granite islands capped with spruce, then the village of North Haven. A schooner lies at anchor, people diving off its deck or hanging from the bobstay. We sometimes wander out of the channel, but small wavelets reveal any danger shallow enough for us to hit, so we worry little. On the eastern side of Vinalhaven, PC skates through Carver Cove and close to the rocks along Calderwood Neck. Soon we reach the multifingered waterway off of which Winter Harbor and Seal Bay stretch. Seal Bay offers extremely protected waters, good holding ground, and numerous small islands--two on the trail--as well as ledges, one marked simply by a homemade flag. First passing Little Hen Island, we reach Hay Island tucked up the end of the bay, but with the tide near low, there are no good landing spots. Also, several cruising boats have threaded their way through to anchor, so as dusk nears, we scurry back to the more isolated Little Hen. A mussel-carpeted beach lines the western, weather shore, but the narrow channel protects it from chop. It looks perfect. We drop sail and drift in. When we step off, our feet sink. By the time mine stop, Im knee deep in Maine muck, and I can barely move. After struggling back aboard, we paddle over to the ledges and hang off until we locate the campsite on the opposite shore. Fortunately, Little Hen, like many islands on the trail, delivers an intimate experience on a small scale, so we can scud PC around to land in a miniature cove.