If you’ve ever aligned your propeller shaft and engine, then you’ve handled the hardware that connects these two components together: the shaft coupling. While simple in form, couplings play a critical role in drivetrain reliability. If they are not properly installed, they can lead to vibration or worse — the separation of the shaft from the engine.
There are three primary types of couplings: straight, split and tapered, with the first two being the most common for smaller sailboat auxiliaries.
While straight-bore couplings are common, they lack the grip required for larger engines and props, which can place significant strain on the shaft-to-coupling interface. The challenge is getting the interference fit between shaft and coupling bore just right. If it’s too tight, driving the coupling onto the shaft may be very difficult, and if it gets stuck before it’s fully inserted, that can present a challenge. If it’s too loose, the shaft may begin to shift in the coupling with each forward-neutral-reverse shift evolution, which in turn will gall the key, allowing for more and more movement.
This scenario often ends with a sheared key and set screws, with the shaft and prop sliding out the shaft log, at which point they either screw their way into the ocean depths or strike — and jam — the rudder. If the shaft parts from the stuffing box altogether, a fire-hose-like geyser will erupt, after which the bilge pumps will be tested, and not in a good way. Installing a clamp ring on the shaft to prevent this scenario makes good sense as a safety backup. Better still, set up your shaft and coupling properly, and you’ll never have to test the clamp ring.
Split couplings are easily identified by their bifurcated design. While this coupling is really made up of one part, its aft end is divided into two sections that are clamped against the shaft using two or more machine screws. With this arrangement, the coupling can apply clamping action to the shaft. The split coupling offers one advantage over other coupling types, as it enables easy removal of the shaft by driving a pair of steel wedges or cold chisels into the gap between the two split halves.
Beyond this, there is no other benefit to using a split coupling, and I’d argue that rather than making it easy to remove, the primary mission of a coupling is to securely retain the shaft. Additionally, because it is split, and therefore moves or distorts each time a shaft is inserted or removed, the coupling face may not remain perpendicular to the shaft, which will affect the ability of the shaft to be aligned to the engine/transmission output coupling. In addition, it is possible to make a mistake during installation — for example, not torqueing pinch bolts in proper sequence, or pinching against a set screw — which leads to the coupler being off perpendicular, which can lead to a serious vibration. It’s worth reiterating, the only attribute of a split coupling is the ease of shaft removal.
Tapered couplings are popular on large horsepower applications and are the undisputed Cadillac of shaft-connection methods. Relying on the same principal used for the propeller-to-shaft interface, a cone-shaped hole in the coupling mates with a precisely machined cone-shaped male taper on the end of the prop shaft. Once the two are properly connected, and the retention nut tightened, they are very difficult to separate, which is exactly the goal. Separation, when intended, typically requires a puller — or a drift (a socket often works well) and longer coupling fasteners, which are used as jacking screws. Unlike the split coupling, a tapered shaft and coupling fit together the same way every time they’re assembled, so there’s no issue with retaining perpendicularity between the shaft and the coupling face, thereby ensuring proper alignment can be accomplished.
Next month, I’ll discuss coupling keys, keyways, pilot bushings, fastener and set screw selection, drift, roll, and taper pins.
Steve D’Antonio offers services for boat owners and buyers through Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting.