Since retiring in 1992, my husband, Carl, and I had been rattling around the Caribbean aboard Camryka, our Pan Oceanic 46 pilothouse cutter. Spectacular anchorages abound in Panama's Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro, but we especially wanted to see Laguna Porras, also known as Dolphin Bay, which lay about eight miles south; cruising friends we'd met in the eastern Caribbean had built a house there. George and Sue Hemming took us walking through their jungle trails, pointing out orchids, parrots, and the bright colors of what people call poison-dart frogs. Butterflies danced in Sue's flowers. Suething, their Gulfstar 45, bobbed alongside Camryka, both boats tucked behind a reef in front of the house. The Hemmings introduced us to their only nearby expatriate neighbors, David and Linda Cerutti, a former charter captain and his wife. The Ceruttis' pristine property, where cacao trees prosper under a rain-forest canopy, is so lush that it could be confused with a national park. As a hobby, David makes and sells chocolate, and he loves explaining to cruisers the ins and outs of growing and processing cacao in his tiny "chocolate factory."